Off the Beaten Track Luxury Cambodia 4x4 Tour

Off-the-Beaten-Track Cambodia by 4x4

This Cambodia 4x4 tour is as much about getting off the beaten track in Cambodia as it is about contrasts. Departing from Phnom Penh by car, the ultimate destination is remote Ratanakiri (sometimes spelt Rattanakiri) Province tucked-up against Vietnam and Laos, uniting the three countries of Indochina, in Northeast Cambodia.

Leaving Phnom Penh behind you and equipped with car, driver and guide, you strike out in a north-easterly direction towards the Laos border passing en route through Kampong Cham which is becoming increasingly more industrial. But there are some excellent examples of French Indochina colonial-era architecture to see and a visit to Chhup Rubber Plantation, established by the French is highly worthwhile and can present some stunning photo opportunities.

The journey continues onto Kratie where you spend the night in a river island lodge accessed by boat. No visit to Kratie would be complete without going Irrawaddy Dolphin Watching. Sightings are by no-means guaranteed as the fresh water dolphin population is put under more and more pressure by human development. Numbers are dwindling fast which makes sighting these intelligent, playful dolphins extra special.

From the moment you leave Kratie things begin to get more remote and black-top gives way to the uneven, bouncy dirt roads of Ratanakiri. The landscape fills with vast bamboo forests which hide spectacularly beautiful waterfalls around Banlung, the capital of Ratanakiri Province.

Continuing northwards, the journey takes you to the village of Tayeng in the Kroeung territory. This is a land lost in time, a land of verdantly pristine rainforests hiding secluded tribal villages whose animist, hunter gatherer inhabitants survive as their forefathers did. Strategically placed totem poles in the villages and rainforest ward keep evil spirits at bay and buffalos are lead to meet their fate as sacrifices to the gods.

This is no canned anthropological tour for hordes of camera totting tourists, but vivid reality that remains the preserve of privileged adventure travellers who are prepared to go the extra mile to experience memorable authenticity in a pristine rainforest environment. And while a jungle environment is notoriously formidable the greatest contrast of this off-the-beaten-track 4x4 tour in Cambodia parallels night and day; the former is spent at Terres Rouge which really is in stark contrast to the total rainforest immersion of the latter.

Ratanakiri Cambodia 4x4 Tour Highlights

This Cambodia 4x4 tour begins to unravel highlights from the moment you leave Phnom Penh. The highlights span history, culture, nature, adventure and cuisine which combine to produce what promises to be five highly memorable days and a very authentic insight into this little corner of Indochina and Southeast Asia.

The Journey

• French Indochina Colonial Architecture, Kampong Cham
• Chhup Rubber Plantation, Kampong Cham

Kratie

• Sala Koh Trong, Kratie
• Irrawaddy Dolphin Watching, Kratie

Ratanakiri

• Terres Rouges Lodge, Banlung, Ratanakiri
• 4WD Off-Road Driving
• Teuk Cha and other tropical waterfalls
• Remote Tribal Villages (E.g. Voeune Sai, Ka Choan, Taveng and Kroeung)
• Veyrum Plang Lava Fields
• Tiger Caves
• Pristine Rainforest and Bamboo Forest
• The Bachelor Houses of Kroeung
• Yeark Laom Volcanic Lake, the setting for you final dinner of the trip
• Banlung Market, a haven of souvenirs

Destinations

Ratanakiri Province is the ultimate destination and the highlight of the trip but to get there overland from Phnom Penh you will pass through Kampong Cham which is becoming industrialized albeit in a very Khmer way; the ambiance is still “Wild West”. Sprinkled in amongst the new are numerous examples of the old. The road from Phnom Penh to Kampong Cham is good and the journey should take about two hours. The French Indochina architecture is well preserved here with river frontage and wide leafy boulevards.

Travelling onwards from Kampong Cham, the journey takes you to Phnom Srey and Phnom Pros set against a backdrop of mountains. This is an area rich in culture and heritage with ancient temples and pagodas, some of which have distinct parallels with some of those found in the vicinity of Angkor Wat Temple. One such example is the five-peaked temple which has distinct similarities with Bontey Srey.

Kratie attracts a trickle of more intrepid travelers from Phnom Penh, most making the journey to see the pod of Irrawaddy Dolphins. The city is located on the banks of the Mekong River and the villas and facades of French Indochina fared better in Kratie during the reign of the Khmer Rouge than in other Cambodian cities. Several river islands temporarily deflect the water on its passage to the South China Sea and it is on one of these river islands that you spend the first night.

And so onwards into Ratanakiri province heading towards the Banlung, the capital of Ratanakiri. Natural beauty is what Ratanakiri is most noted for aside from its wealth of natural resources as well. The landscape consists of undulating hills and mountains carpeted with bamboo forest and jungle. Ratanakiri is eco-tourism heaven with countless waterfalls, remote tribes isolated by location and time, wildlife and geological interest.

Sleeping Arrangements

For a 4x4 tour that takes you that takes you into a spectacularly remote region of Cambodia, the standard of accommodation is refreshingly civilised and comfy. Under the same ownership, Sala Koh Trong and Terres Rouge provide sanctuary within the wilderness and surrounding environment without segregating you from it.

Sala Koh Trong

Located on the Mekong River island of Koh Trong in Kratie town, Sala Koh Trong is accessed by boat followed by moped or horse-drawn cart. With just 5 guestrooms, Sala Koh Trong is the personification of “eco-boutique”. With traditional Khmer furnishings, Sala Koh Trong is squarely plugged-into the Cambodian cultural vibe offering a rustic, personal river island eco retreat in Cambodia.

Terres Rouge

Located in the former Governor’s Residence, Terres Rouge is owned and managed by Pierre-Yves, a French ex-paratrooper and his Khmer wife Chenda. Terres Rouge overlooks Banlung Lake and has several claims to fame. It is the only boutique hotel in Ratanakiri Province and the Bar, “Le Jovial Jarai” is the Best Bar in the Middle of Nowhere according to Time Magazine!

The unmistakable French Indochina flavour at Terres Rouge is today infused with a collection of Cambodian antiques, textiles and ornaments, many of the latter produced by the 12 primitive tribes of Ratanakiri. While the well stocked bar offers a excellent choice of wines and spirits, the restaurant specialises in Ratanakiri culinary specialities which is an adventure in itself. For those who prefer more familiar fare, Khmer, Chinese and French dishes can also be provided.

Guestrooms are scattered both upstairs and downstairs in the main house and out in the garden by the pool. There is just one deluxe room and seven suites. The rooms on the ground floor of the main house are all en suite while upstairs are the “historical” rooms where the Governor and his family used to sleep. There bedrooms are accessed from a central sitting room and have a wide terrace with amazing views. The bungalows in the garden are the choice for those seeking peace and quiet.

After days spent in the jungles and rainforests of Ratanakiri, returning to Terres Rouge is an absolute treat. Flop down for some spa and massage pampering, dive into the swimming pool or recline on the veranda with a Pastis in hand, gazing out over the lawn where the spirits of linen-suited planters play.

Awards & Accolades "Le Jovial Jaraï" Bar - Voted "Best Bar in the Middle of Nowhere" by Time Magazine in its Best of Asia edition 2005.

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